Destinations

Destinations

One country, several countries within it. Where the light falls differently.

All destinations

The ribbed turquoise dome of the Centre of Islamic Civilization in Tashkent, tiled and lined with gold, above its carved stone façades.
Plane trees and an ancient Qur’an

Tashkent

The capital and the usual starting point. Old mosques and a great bazaar sit beside wide avenues and the first metro in Central Asia.

The Tilla-Kori madrasa on the Registan in Samarkand at blue hour, its portal and arcades lit gold under a deep blue sky.
Blue domes over Timur’s capital

Samarkand

Timur’s capital and the most famous halt on the Silk Road. The blue domes and tiled portals of the Registan are the picture most people carry of Uzbekistan before they arrive.

The Kalyan minaret in Bukhara seen from the square below, its brick bands lit by afternoon sun.Maksimsokolov · CC BY-SA 4.0
Two thousand years, on foot

Bukhara

More than two thousand years old and best understood on foot. Trading domes, madrasas and the Kalyan minaret fill a compact old town where everything is close.

The mud-brick walls of Itchan Kala in Khiva under a clear sky.Adam Harangozó · CC BY-SA 4.0
A whole town inside its walls

Khiva

A whole walled town, Itchan Kala, kept almost entire, like a museum under the open sky. Sleep inside the walls and watch the minarets change colour at sunset.

The two surviving pylons of the Ak-Saray palace portal in Shakhrisabz, their tilework lit by the afternoon sunHassan Gangu · CC0
Timur’s birthplace, beyond the pass

Shakhrisabz

Timur’s home town in the green foothills south of Samarkand. What remains of his Ak-Saray palace still gives the measure of the scale he built on.

Yurts at Yurt Camp Aidar, near Lake Aydarkul in the KyzylkumBenjamin Goetzinger · CC BY-SA 4.0
A spring, a desert, a lake

Nurata and Aydarkul

Desert and lake country between Samarkand and Bukhara. A spring with sacred fish, a night in a yurt camp in the Kyzylkum and a camel ride towards dusk.

A weaver at a hand loom in Margilan, bright ikat silk stretched across the framePeretz Partensky · CC BY 2.0
Silk and clay beyond the mountains

Fergana Valley

The country’s craft heartland, over the mountains from Tashkent. Silk woven by hand in Margilan, blue ceramics fired in Rishtan and a khan’s palace in Kokand.

A rusting fishing boat lying on dry sand at Muynak, where the Aral Sea used to reachMarjonaKhidirova · CC BY-SA 4.0
Avant-garde art and a vanished sea

Karakalpakstan and the Aral Sea

The far west of the country. A collection of once-banned Soviet painting in Nukus, the ships left on the old seabed at Muynak and a night on what remains of the Aral shore.

Green slopes below the snow-streaked peaks of Chimgan in the western Tian Shan, north-east of TashkentLBM1948 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Snow, a lake, the capital’s mountains

Chimgan and Charvak

The western Tian Shan an hour and a half from Tashkent: a turquoise reservoir, two valleys climbing from its shore, and snow on the peaks for much of the year.

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